• Skip to main content
  • Skip to secondary menu
  • Skip to primary sidebar
  • Skip to footer
  • Home
  • Contact
  • About Us
    • Published Works
  • Privacy Policy
Food • Arts • Fashion

Food • Arts • Fashion

  • Home
  • FOOD
  • ARTS
    • BOOKS
      • Beltin: Stejjer Minn Nies Minsija
    • THEATRE
    • MUSIC
  • FASHION
  • NEWS
You are here: Home / FOOD / Ion Harbour by Simon Rogan

Ion Harbour by Simon Rogan

March 15, 2023 by Ramona Depares Leave a Comment

simon-rogan-ion-harbour

Celebrated chef Simon Rogan. Photo: Sean Mallia

Farm to fork has increasingly become a buzz word in Malta, but in reality very few restaurants are able to fulfil that promise. There are some notable gems, of course – Noni springs to mind, Rebekah‘s and a few others that do their utmost to reduce the carbon footprint.

Now, there’s a new addition to the local foodie landscape and it’s set to place locally-sourced, seasonal ingredients well in the spotlight. And what an addition it is, as Ion Harbour by Simon Rogan has just been unveiled. The three-Michelin starred chef is leading a new concept at the rooftop restaurant that forms part of Iniala Harbour, right after his predecessor’s Alex Dilling’s stint came to a successful closure.

Simon Rogan is one of those rare chefs who implements a natural approach to cuisine without any unnecessary fuss or hype. What he does speaks for itself, and his flagship restaurant in Cumbria is testament that a sustainable approach to fine dining is possible. Not only that – done properly it elevates the flavour of ingredients to unimagined heights.

After the launch of his new menu at ION Harbour I went straight home to google some more tea about him. Yes, I creeped on his entire IG account, so sue me. Point is, it didn’t surprise me to discover that Rogan’s father worked at a fruit and vegetable market – clearly, this is someone who appreciates the value of fresh, good quality produce.

I enjoyed listening to him talk about the ingredients that were used for each dish on the tasting menu. One particular phrase stood out for me, when Chef was explaining what goes into the preparation of the Turbot from the South waters stuffed with mussels, Qara Ħamra squash (full marks for the pronounciation of Qara Ħamra, or butternut squash ) and smoked bone sauce – “We don’t waste absolutely anything.”

It is a philosophy that transcends all of Simon Rogan’s dishes, such as the Suckling Pig, which is sourced from Ta’ Gianinu Farm. Once again, nothing goes to waste with the sauce made from the bones and different cuts used to compose the dish.

Some of the dishes available on the tasting menu. Photos: Sean Mallia

Ion Harbour by Simon Rogan – elevating flavours to unimagined heights

From day one, it is evident that Ion Harbour by Simon Rogan is an entirely different creature from its predecessor. The presence of local produce is not incidental to the menu, but rather its crowning glory. There’s carob honey, bream, artichokes, strawberries from Ta’ Qali farmer’s market and even bambinella. I pronounce myself seduced.

Onto specifics. Every ingredient in every dish is used with intent, an integral part of a symphony of flavours that are delicate but lingering. And don’t tell me that this is an oxmoron, because it isn’t. You might think that the rhubarb and wild thyme used with the Frozen Tunworth Cheese are mere extras, but you’d be very wrong. They are just as important as the star ingredients.

Some more favourites – the Large White Pork and Eel Doughnut with cured fat and own blend caviar. Honestly, when I read that my brain went, say what now? My tastebuds caught up pretty fast though. This is genuinely one of the best things I’ve tasted in a long, long time.

The Fuseau artichokes with ragstone cheese and stout vinegar were a revelation, and I still can’t decide what was more pleasing – the texture or the subtle creaminess. We’ve already established that Ta’ Gianinu Farm clearly raises prize-winning pigs, and finally – the Ta’ Qali Strawberries and Bee Pollen Cake, Marigold and Milk Cream. If I keeled over after finishing this, I’d have been okay with everything.

In short, Ion Harbour by Simon Rogan is sustainable, is ethical and just as importantly I promise it will make you curl your toes in delight as your tastebuds hum a little victory song.

ION Harbour by Simon Rogan will serve a tasting menu for both lunch and dinner, priced at €135. A shorter business lunch menu will also be available as of March 23, priced at €45 (and quite frankly a steal). The restaurant’s Front of House will be led by restaurant manager, James Christie and assistant
food & beverage director Melissa Sambugaro. Executive chef Oli Marlow will be joined by head chef Eoin Smith.

For more Malta lifestyle and restaurant reviews, check out this review of Risette and Nduja Osteria in Valletta.

Filed Under: FOOD, NEWS Tagged With: ION Harbour, ION Harbour by Simon Rogan, Malta fine dining, Malta Michelin, Simon Rogan

Reader Interactions

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Primary Sidebar

  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • RSS
  • Twitter
  • YouTube

Theatre Highlights

il-giddieb-ghomru-twil

A superb cast does justice to this inventive re-imagining of Pinocchio

l-arrest-ta-danny-weed

Holds a very unflattering mirror to Maltese society.

Food Highlights

le-bistro-radisson

Classic Mediterranean favourites with a twist

risette-restaurant-iberico-pork

Fine dining with a strong, creative twist

Fashion Highlights

pink-fashion-party

An eclectic list of guests and designers celebrated fashion

Mark Mallia

A re-interpretation of the white crow

Books Highlights

taht-il-kappa-tax-xemx

Ever relatable satire that’s funny and disturbing

battle-for-sicily-soul

Meticulously-researched, accurate and gripping

Arts Highlights

kane-cali-i-dont-have-a-theory

A journey that see the artist letting go of structure

it-teatru-tal-miskin

Excels on all fronts, a real game-changer

News Highlights

spring-awakening-spazju-kreattiv

A promising crop of young actors and an effective narrative

la-cage-aux-folles

Get ready to conga

Footer

  • Home
  • FOOD
  • ARTS
    • BOOKS
      • Beltin: Stejjer Minn Nies Minsija
    • THEATRE
    • MUSIC
  • FASHION
  • NEWS

Copyright Ramona Depares © 2023

Manage Cookie Consent
We use cookies to optimize our website and our service.
Functional Always active
The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network.
Preferences
The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user.
Statistics
The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes. The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you.
Marketing
The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes.
Manage options Manage services Manage vendors Read more about these purposes
View preferences
{title} {title} {title}