Zest Restaurant. Photos: Food Mood Pictures By Sandor
Zest is very much a tried-and-trusted icon on the Asian food landscape in Malta. Like an old favourite I return to periodically, even though I have to admit it had been a while. I was recently invited to dinner to check out the changes to the menu and to get re-acquainted with the chef’s specialities.
The vibe has always been one of the most attractive aspects of this place for me. Zest is one of those few places that successfully creates a lounge vibe, combining the dining experience with the chill-and-chat. I visited in a Friday evening, when there’s live music by Nicole Frendo starting from 8pm.
Now, live music at a restaurant is a tricky one. Nine places out of 10 will mess it up, turning what should be a relaxing experience into a shouting match as you try to make yourself heard over whatever is playing. So I approached the evening with caution.
However, I am happy to report that Zest have hit on the perfect balance. Frendo keeps her performance understated – the music complement other conversation, rather than taking over. I enjoyed short lulls when my first and I were both enjoying a particular song, then picking where we left off without feeling our evening had been intruded upon.
Since my last visit Zest has also undergone a makeover, and the space is now even more welcoming, the minimalist approach with bold undertones highlighting the cosmopolitan feel that also is a huge pull for me and others.
But these are the frills of the experience, and we are here primarily for the food. The big question being – has Zest withstood the test of time and is it still as fresh as when it first opened its doors?
Zest Restaurant: Perfect For Sharing
I’ll start off with this: the service at Zest is a dream. Not perfunctory, not an afterthought, and not intrusive either. The team clearly has passion and knowledge and puts them to good use. Our server gave us good advice, disappeared when we wanted him to, reappeared as soon as we gave a casual look around, and kept our wine glasses topped up without becoming an annoyance (this last one is no mean feat).
The menu is an interesting fusion of different Asian cuisines. If you’re after an evening a sharing plates and sushi nibbles, you can do this. If you’re leaning towards fuller mains there’s a selection of curries and teppanyaki dishes.
We opted for a mix of starters and curries to share. Sea bass ceviche with quinoa, fresh lime and charred white corn; Prawn & Shiitake Thai Style Dim Sums; and homemade guacamole served with cossaba root chips. The three starters provided a perfect balance of textures. The dim sums were eminently satisfying, fluffy morsels of flavour. The delicate ceviche is deceptive – wait for the lingering umami to blow your tastebuds away. I also love what they’ve done with the guacamole here, the simplicity of the fresh ingredients working very well with the more complex texture of the chips.
For our mains we opted for two curries – the first was Gulai Kambing, a gorgeously thick sauce replete with lamb leg slow cooked in aromatic spices and coconut milk, served with jasmine rice. The creamy coconut played with the heartiness of the lamb very nicely, not overpowering but complementing.
Our other dish was also a winner – the Zest Signature Beef Rendang, with tender beef morsels simmered in a chilli, ginger and coconut sauce and a special herbs mix. The coconut was used even more delicately here, allowing the chili and ginger to create a gentle kick.
We accompanied our meal with a nicely crisp Greco di Tufo, but this didn’t stop me from picking an after dinner cocktail to go with dessert. Desserts are western, and it’s difficult to choose between the rich chocolate fondant, the crème brûlée and the Eton Mess. I opted for the latter, a glorious concoction of meringue, cream, strawberries and cake that took me straight to heaven. My accompanying cocktail was Velvet – creamy, luscious and 100% worth all the calories, no regrets.
My guest opted for the chocolate fondant with chilli flakes and salted caramel ice cream. A cheeky taste confirmed his choice to be equally well-judged.
So, onto that all-important question. Does Zest still have it? Damn right it does. It’s good to see this icon still leading the charge in Asian fusion on the local landscape. 100% fresh.