Curious Beauty, organised by Fondazzjoni Patrimonju Malti and under the artistic direction of Francesca Balzan and Caroline Tonna. All photos by Kevin Casha.
Walking into Palazzo Falzon I’m greeted by a gorgeous lace gown. I can see every minute detail of the design, the intricate lacework, the way the small, intriguing parts come together to make a stunning whole. This is because, thanks to a clever curatorial device, the dress has not only been mounted on an invisible le mannequin, allowing us to dream about who its wearer may have been. It has also been lit up from within, using a custom created set up that shows off this historic artifact to best advantage without in any way impacting its integrity.
Welcome to Fondazzjoni Patrimonju Malti’s Curious Beauty – an alternative costume exhibition which is currently showing at Palazzo Falzon. Here, ingenious curatorial choices are the norm and every single artifact surprises and delights.
This is hardly unexpected, of course, given that the concept for Curious Beauty was conceived by Francesca. Balzan and Caroline Tonna. Francesca and Carolina are two of Malta’s most respected art historians. Francesca is perhaps best known for her sculptures of the human face, witty and evocative, besides her long-standing association with FPM. Caroline was, until recently, the curator at Palazzo Falson and is another powerhouse of a woman whose contributions to the cultural and fashion sectors shines.
Now, the two have teamed up together as artistic directors of this unusual exhibition, which showcases historic costumes and accessories from public, private and church collections, displayed in contemporary art installations against the backdrop of the stunning Palazzo Falson.
The exhibition presents an enthrallingly daring concept that makes such clever use of the Palazzo itself, working with the building’s natural features to present an immersive narrative. And what a narrative it is, showing us the artifacts in a series of creative tableaux, with just enough historical details to inform, while leaving it up to our imagination to fill in the blanks about who may have worn these items and the lives they lead.
Because, as Francesca and Caroline are the first to say, Curious Beauty is all about story-telling. Walking inside, I am greeted by a flurry of merrymakers on their way to who-knows-where. Outfits have been mounted on papier-mâché creatures, whimsical, fluttering in the breeze. The detail is wonderful: one outfit has a ruched collar made entirely of paper. Another mannequin sports pointed ears, giving off Alice in Wonderland energy. It’s easy to get caught there, mesmerized, but there’s more to be seen.
I walk into the next room straight into a dinner party, conversing hands showing off a variety of gloves from different eras. And then it’s up the stairs, where I look up to a huddle of hats suspended right above me. Not only is the effect of the floating, moving headpieces gorgeous, it also affords the viewer a 360 degree view, right down to the lining.
Walking further in I’m greeted by the pièce de résistance – full outfits, the intricate detail and the tiny measurements with the tucked in waist telling their own story. The two artistic directors have grouped the mannequins very cleverly, again allowing us to create our own narrative. Sourcing these complete outfits must have been a chore and a half, I remark. Francesca and Caroline smile in acknowledgement.
Of course, the fact that they have managed to source all these artifacts is a wonder in itself. Many hail from private collections, a testament to the trust in both Tonna and Balzan, given just how fragile and rare they are. The exhibition will close before the hot weather really kicks in, they tell me, and the utmost care has been taken to ensure that the integrity of each exhibit is maintained. Nothing has been ‘forced’ into a narrative. Instead, the natural characteristics and narrative afforded by the Palazzo are used to organically weave each exhibit within its natural context.
I continue on to the handbags section – paradise found – and on to the ecclesiastical section (loaned from the collection at the Mdina cathedral itself) and the bedroom, a tasteful journey through the cultural changes that even this area went through.
One specific section is dedicated to Olof Gollcher, the distinguished artist and collector responsible for restoring the Palazzo. Both artistic directors describe him as a muse and inspiration for the entire exhibition, and Francesca and Caroline have chosen to depict him via a selection of eyewear, complemented by papier-mâché installations showing Francesca’s trademark work. Each exhibit tells a story of decadent dinner parties and salons. It’s truly delightful.
On my way out, I spot a magnificent, large scale lace installation that has been created specifically for the exhibition. Its design mimics that of the outfit showcased on the ground floor, and it’s the first time such large scale lace work has been exhibited in this manner. A fitting goodbye to visitors, one that’s best appreciated from the centre of the courtyard, looking up.
Curious Beauty runs until June 16 at Palazzo Falson, Mdina. For other Malta culture related news, check out this theatre review of Masquerade’s Oliver! The Musical or this piece about Cantine Pellegrino Sicilian wines.
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