Living on a Mediterranean island, a concept like ION at Sea sounds magical. I mean, what’s not to like about having dinner under the stars, Grand Harbor shimmering around you, the gentle sway of the waves complementing the equally gentle buzz of the breeze?
Of course, as with all ideas that sound amazing in theory, so much can still go wrong. Will food and service be prepared up to the usual standard of ION and Simon Rogan? Will the gentle rocking turn out not to be so gentle and upset those gorgeous wine glasses? And, let’s be honest, space is limited even on a boat as lush as the Riva, so how comfortable is this experience which, it has to be said, comes with a significant price tag?
In short, is ION at Sea as wonderful as those IG reels make it out to be? A 100%, and I’ve even got my own reel to prove it. There is no question that the experience is impressive, and the visuals make that case effortlessly. But for a concept this high-end, a pretty reel alone is not enough to get my seal of approval.
ION at Sea will be a rare, one-off indulgence for most diners, so what I was after was whether the experience delivers in every respect, from the food and service to the atmosphere, comfort and attention to detail.
ION at Sea – practical details
The whole adventure started at the Marina di Valletta, where we were greeted and led to our boat by the affable restaurant manager, Arsen Brahaj. Arsen turned out to be a gem with his easy charm, offering enough banter without crossing the line into becoming intrusive. Together with the skipper, he added considerably to the experience. Considering that we were going to be a ‘captive audience’, these details are not inconsequential. The last thing you want is to be trapped with overbearing humans on your luxury experience, so kudos to ION at Sea for appreciating this fine point.
We left the Marina at 7:30 pm sharp, just before sunset. It’s quite the sight, as you get to enjoy the Valletta skyline soaked in golden hour, the last stragglers of the day enjoying a final bathe. This is possibly the best way to enjoy our capital city, far from the madding crowd, allowing its beauty to wash upon you from afar.
ION at Sea – browsing the menu
Presently we moored at one of the most picturesque points of Grand Harbour, Kalkara to one side, Valletta to the other, with the sun setting right behind the Breakwater. The sea on this side of the port is crystal clear, almost as though you can walk on it. The stage was thus set, and what followed next was worthy of a Fellini scene from La Dolce Vita – flowing Pol Roger Brut Réserve (the Winston Churchill is also available for those with pockets deep enough), gentle music, and ION’s house crackers accompanied by a delightfully edgy Gozitan pecorino dip. Truly, I could have just stayed on this duo all evening.
But of course, Chef Charlie Wilson — the star of the evening, undoubtedly — had other ideas. The menu follows the classic ION Harbour by Simon Rogan concept. Throughout the evening we were served a succession of delicate bites, no dish ever overpowering or overfilling, so we could enjoy the full menu that Chef Charlie was preparing for us below deck.
The culinary school of thought employed here is an excellent one, each ingredient celebrated and given opportunity to shine. Or, to put it less fancifully, the combination of flavours is so perfectly balanced on the palate as to be almost scientific. Take the Raw south coast Rossi prawn, served with buttermilk and smoked pike perch roe. A happy marriage, each element distinct, yet working in complete harmony.
Another star was the Celeriac baked in salts from Gozo. I mean, how exciting can celeriac get, right? Plenty, thanks to Chef Charlie’s ministrations, which saw it served with marinated sea succulents (that’s edible sea plants to you and me, and who’d have thought they’d introduce such a satisfying sharpness?) and special reserve caviar.
Throughout the course of the evening we were served a nine-course menu, a galaxy of flavors that somehow created sharp contrasts complementing each other. The lampuki cured in juniper and beetroots was another revelation. I’m one of the few who doesn’t really enjoy this fish, but the curing process added a firm texture and a savoury profile that had me going “mmm”.
The main event was a guinea hen stuffed with truffle, served with snowball cauliflower and sauce infused with lemon thyme. Truffle and lemon thyme can be a bit of a dangerous combo in the wrong hands. Not in Chef Charlie’s, who employs both with restraint, the truffle complementing the earthiness of the fowl, while the freshness of the thyme prevented the dish from becoming too heavy.
Finally, we were more than ready for the restaurant’s signature dessert, the ION fig leaf set mousse, served with sugar plums and adding just the right sweet accent, followed by Cacao infused set miso cream, toasted nibs and carob. Gorgeous conclusion to a gorgeous evening, but not before a word about the wines.
Throughout the evening we were served a selection of excellent vintages. Some of my favourites: the Foradori, Fontanasanta Manzoni Bianco, Vigneti delle Dolomiti – citrusy, fresh, and dangerously easy to drink – and the livelier Benjamin Leroux Bourgogne Blanc. Wine pairings are available, and you can also order by the bottle.
My verdict
We berthed back at the marina at 10.30ish, which again was just the right timeframe before everyone got too tired (and too drunk, given how generous Arsen is with the pours). Does ION at Sea deliver on its promise? Recently we’ve seen a spate of supposedly uber-luxury experiences that are anything but, and seem to use the word purely as an excuse to justify the price tag. This certainly isn’t the case with ION, which never once lets down the reputation of the brand, even when out at sea.
This is a unique experience and honestly, we should all be able to live our dolce vita off a Riva, sipping champagne while ION’s wonderful Chef Charlie and his team delight our tastebuds. For a short while, if you can take a break from real life and treat yourself and a favourite human to dinner under the stars, it’s going to be one of those memory-making experiences you’ll look back upon with joy. Which is what we work hard for, after all.
ION at Sea accommodates one party every evening and sails daily except Monday and Thursday ·up till October 4. More information is available here.
Affiliate/Advertising Information
I was invited to report upon the ION at Sea experience as part of a press launch. No affiliate links are included in this write-up and the opinions expressed here are my own and had no influence from the restaurant.To learn more about my policies and my writing process, visit my Affiliate/Advertising disclosure page.
