Regular followers of ramonadepares.com will know that I have a particularly soft spot for all things Sicilian. Our neighbours seem to do everything so beautifully. Pristine beaches if you know where to look for them, nature, amazing restaurants and, of course, the wines! Cantine Pellegrino wines are one of my more recent discovery, having been hosted to a wonderful wine-pairing evening by the lovely people at Wines & Co, whom we need to thank for bringing these wines to Malta.
The event was hosted within the banquet room at Bacchus restaurant, whose kitchen brigade prepared five courses to complement six different Cantine Pellegrino wines that were being served on the night. Yes that’s right, six – but more on that soon.
The evening kicked off with Lucimare Spumante Brut Charmat Terre Siciliane IGT, accompanied by a Scallop served with lime, coriander and ginger buerre blanc that was as wonderfully light as the Lucimare itself. This sparkling wine has a very delicate flavour and is very easy to drink, great to start off with but would also make a very good standalone for a relaxed afternoon without letting things get too heavy.
The Lucimare was followed by what would turn out to be my absolute favourite, an Isesi Bianco Pantelleria DOC 2022. The volcanic soil of Pantelleria has done some great things to this wine, as has the local zibibbo grape. Interestingly, the technique used to grow this particular variety of zibibbo grape is inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage list. I fell in love with the crispness of this wine and can already see myself making it my summer 2024 drink of choice. It was complemented with a Vegetable Aspic with beetroot gel, white asparagus shavings and truffle carpaccio – flavours that were light enough to let the Isesi Bianco Pantelleria DOC shine through.
A refreshing Senaria Grillo Superiore Sicilia DOC 2022 followed, accompanied by a lusciously creamy Goat Cheese and Walnut Raviolo with asparagus purée, grouper tartare and mango caviar. Cantine Pellegrino produce this wine from grapes grown in Mazzara, and it delivers a more structured and intense palate than the Isesi Bianco. It is a wine that asks you to take your time with it so as to savour the complex palate.
Switching to meat with a pork tenderloin accompanied by a white bean cassoulet, it was time to sample one of Cantine Pellegrino’s most popular reds, the Junco Frappato Terre Siciliane IGT 2022. Ruby coloured and exquisitely fruity, it’s an excellent entry even for those who don’t usually drink red wine as it has the lovely light-bodied flavour typical of the Frappato grape. It’s one of those red that can take a slight chill when served, again perfect for the Maltese (and, clearly, the Sicilian) summers.
Cantine Pellegrino – a long and respected tradition
The evening came to an end with a delightful Cassata Siciliana served with white chocolate, Pistachio di Bronte and a lemon sorbet. This was accompanied by a choice of two Cantine Pellegrino stalwarts. The Nes Passito Naturale Di Pantelleria DOC 2022 and the Old John Marsala Superiore Riserva Ambra Semisecco DOC 1998.
This is where Marsala as a region really comes into its own, of course, the famed Marsala dessert wines. I was thrilled to be given the opportunity to try Cantine Pellegrino’s Old John DOC 1998, of which there are very few bottles in circulation. The palate is very intense, and not at all what you’d expect from a typical dessert wine. Made with grillo, catarratto and inzolia grapes, whiskey lovers will adore this one as it has an intensely floral aftertaste thanks to the thyme.
I’m not gonna lie, though – my actual favourite was the Nes Passito Naturale di Pantelleria, a lighter and fruitier wine that is dangerously fun to drink. Cantine Pellegrino was founded in 1880 by Paolo Pellegrino, and the family is responsible for a very long history of wine-making, making it one of the Sicilian pioneers. Although the company originated in Marsala, nowadays it has diversified to other regions. Clearly, the family tradition is still going strong – kudos for also integrating a strong element of sustainability to the wine-making process.
If you’re wondering how come I know so much about Cantine Pellegrino vineyards and their unique characteristics – I don’t. But we were lucky enough to have Giuseppe Barraco, who is export area manager for Malta, present with us and he shared some very interesting anecdotes related to wine-making techniques used at these Marsala vineyards. My discovery of the night was the origin of the word zibibbo – derived from African roots, it actually means ‘dried grape’. It was quite the lightbulb moment for me considering that the Maltese word for dried grape is, in fact, żbib.
Cantine Pellegrino is another delightful discovery that I’ll be adding to my wine portfolio. Considering their value, tradition and limited production, the wines are very reasonably priced with most vintages setting you back less than €20. You can view the whole catalogue at Wines & Co.
For more Malta food and drink news, follow the link. You can also read this review of The Contessa at Phoenicia Malta and all about brunch at Elephant Shoe.
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I received no payment for this review and I dined there as part of a press invitation. The opinions expressed here are purely my own and the wine producer had no input/control over what I wrote. No affiliate links are included in this review.To learn more about my policies and my reviewing process, visit my Affiliate/Advertising disclosure page.